There are always some tricks that you might not know, even if you’ve been wiring for years. Two master electricians, each with decades of combined experience, were consulted to learn their tricks and tips. These tips, from labeling wires to straightening cables, will help you wire faster, better, and cleaner.

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1. Uncoil cable without kinks.

It is much easier to pull plastic-sheathed cables into holes in the framing if the cable has been straightened out. It’s best to take a few coils from the middle of the roll and throw them as you would a rope across the floor.

Then, as you walk the length of the cable, straighten it. The electrical experts we spoke to prefer using this method, as they can keep the cables contained within the plastic wrapper. This makes it easier to handle and store.

2. Pack electrical boxes neatly.

You’ve likely encountered the problem of an overstuffed box if you’ve done a lot of wiring. How to create a compact and neat electrical box.

Connect the ground wires and the long pigtail. Fold the wires into the box and leave the pigtail extending.

Do the same thing for the Neutral Wires. You don’t require a neutral pigtail if you are connecting switches, as shown in the picture. Keep the hot wire long and fold the wire back and forth along the bottom of the electrical wire box.

To identify the hot wire, place a cap over it. The neatly packaged box makes it simple to identify the wires, and there is plenty of space for switches.

3. Remove sheathing from underground feeder cable (UF).

The underground feeder cable is covered in durable plastic that makes it possible to bury the cable directly into the ground without having to run it through the conduit. This tough sheathing can be difficult to remove unless you have a trick.

Grab each wire with pliers, and then twist. You should have approximately a foot’s worth of wires.

After that, separate the sheathing by using pliers to grab the wire end with one pair and the sheathing with the other. Once you have separated the sheathing at the top of the wire, peel it off with scissors or a blade.

4. No-snag fish tape connections.

The last thing you need is to lose your cable or have your fish tape stuck to something in the wall when you try to pull it back. Here’s how you can avoid this headache.

Begin by stripping an 8-in. Start by stripping an 8-in. Cut all wires except one with side cutters. To avoid creating a “shoulder”, cut at a steep incline.

Wrap the electrical tape around the bundle and bend the wire to the loop at the end of the tape.

You can now push the wire and fish it to your needs without having to worry about it getting stuck on obstructions.

5. Check the full wall cavity.

You’ll find that a good stud-finder is an essential tool for any electrical project. But you won’t just use it to locate studs.

After you have located the wall cavity, use your stud finder to scan the entire wall cavity. Look for obstructions like blocked headers and blocking.

It’s not a good idea to discover the hard way that the wire you have can’t reach the exact location where you want it.

6. The must have electrical tool.

Flex bits and glow-rods are the electrical tools professionals use to fish wires.

The flexibility of the bit allows you to drill holes in difficult-to-reach areas. There are two common lengths: 5 ft. or 6 ft. Extensions are also available.

After drilling your hole, you can insert a glow-in-the dark rod to begin fishing line. Attach your wire to the eyelet on the end, and pull it through.

Glow rods are just as their name implies, and they glow in the darkness. They are easier to see when you’re fishing in dark areas.

7. Push through extra wire.

Make sure you have enough wire for the hook to grab onto when fishing wire. It can be difficult to grasp a wire. Once you do, you won’t want it to fall off.

Make sure you have enough wire to maintain tension as you pull the hook through.

8. How to identify wires that have been roughed in.

Save yourself from headaches and identify the wires while you are installing them. You can also read 15 tips to avoid headaches before you start any electrical work. You can use the same “code” as the electrician in north shore auckland that we spoke to. One example is shown in the top photo.

A label is another option (bottom). By the time you return to connect outlets and switches, the label may have been removed or covered by drywallers.

It’s always best to avoid using labels whenever possible. Create a system, and then write it down. It’s no longer necessary to guess the wires that are used for the “line”, “load”, and the travelers of.

9. Test wires before touching them.

It’s easy to become complacent when you’ve completed a lot of wiring. But don’t. Use a voltage detector that doesn’t require contact to test every wire in your wire box.

Always test the tester before relying on any wire or cord that you are sure is life.

10. Test GFCI outlets.

Ground fault circuit interrupters are able to save hundreds of lives every year by detecting dangerous current flows and shutting down power instantly. After about 10 years, the circuitry in a GFCI will wear out. The test button on a GFCI usually doesn’t indicate that anything is wrong.

The power is always shut off when you press the button. The only way to test an older GFCI with confidence is to use a tester that includes a GFCI button.

Test the tester by pressing its button. The GFCI will work if the power shuts off. To restore power, press the reset button. Replace the GFCI if the power does not go off.

Your new GFCI won’t require a circuit test. All GFCIs made after mid-2006 will tell you when it fails. Most GFCIs shut off power completely when they fail.

Someday, your GFCI will stop supplying power (and all other outlets that are connected to it), and you will have to replace them.

11. One hot wire for multiple switches.

It’s not necessary to add extra connectors or pigtails in a wire box that has three switches. Here’s a wiring technique for a cleaner installation.

To avoid running separate pigtails from the hotwire to each switch, simply leave the wire extra long. Simply score the wire using your wire stripper and then push the insulation out to about 3/4″ in order to connect the switch. The bare wire is shown on the left.

Wrap the bare section around the screw terminal at least three-quarters of the way. Repeat this process for all intermediate switches (right). Connect the final switch as usual by looping the wire clockwise around the screw.

12. Strip cable sheathing first.

You may be tempted to just push your cable through knockouts and then worry later about stripping the sheathing. It’s a difficult way to do it. Remove the sheathing first, then push the wires into the box.

It’s important to mark the cable (left) before removing its sheathing. If you do not stretch the cable too tight, you will have enough “play” after inserting the conductors in the box to make any final adjustments.

The Electrical Code requires at least 1/4 inch of sheathing to be visible inside the box. Sheathing must be visible in the box.

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